Dim sum go go go east brunswick1/17/2024 Cooking keeps pace with the evolving way we like to eat but is never egregiously clever-clogs. Nothing much has changed in the past 30-odd years. But make a booking & “membership” is granted by your name scribbled on the white paper tablecloth - next to a candle in a bottle. As happens in such places, a clientele of regulars clubbily coalesced. Opened in 1986 by the eponymous print dealer whose shop trades next door, the venue was quickly embraced as London’s riposte to a Parisian bistro. Once through the battered door of the early C18th terrace house you can breathe a sigh of relief: Soho’s soul remains untrammelled. It is daft but Blinky, Pinky, Inky and Clyde are tightly packed and feature bouncy - veering on crunchy - prawn filling. Pac Man is fashioned from a piece of battered sweet potato reclining on a bed of crushed avocado. Four pastel-coloured parcels, basically har gau, are made to look morose and malevolent with beady black sesame seed eyes. Irresistibly Instagram - you will surely have seen it somewhere - is Pac Man Shrimp Dumplings. My advice when you go is to make choices stage by stage, starting, if you like hokey Cantonese food, with Spicy Crispy Beef and if you want to test their nous on the subject of sourcing “Our Famous Pastrami Egg Roll” where the brined beef has sagely been obtained from Monty’s Deli in Hoxton. Although beneficent and of course interesting grist to the mill, it creates a hard-to-digest dim sum logjam. One of us being known to Ed gets us a red gingham check-upholstered banquette for four - and also more dishes than we actually order, all arriving at lightning speed. New West End Company BRANDPOST | PAID CONTENT.
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